Leaving faces behind in Sucre

I have become lazy, and i dont write so eagerly like before. I dindnt even go to the museums, whcih i really like.I got lost, first because of losing my ticket, then because of the too much wine in the flat here in Sucre and then because of chatting away the way with many friends. In couchsurfing -when you connect with the place and the people there -i always feel that i am not going to fall in love again, i cant meet again someone so much like a sun in the heart. And then it happens over and over again.And probably this is the part why it is great to travel alone, because you are not alone never (since i left Andrea i spent more or less maximum 2 hours alone), you get together with birds from other corners and fly around for a while together.

I am leaving for la Paz in 3 hours, it is going to be a travel during the night, i chose my seat next to a women. I have in my bag little bags - all bought in bolivia. One wants to buy half the market, they are cheap and incredibly beautful. I started going to the market places every day,

now i bought my banana, almoands and the peach there. I talk with the seller woman, make them feel a little guilty if they want to charge me too much, and tell them where i am travelling next. I am eating a lot of fruits here, mango, avocado, apples, banana. Upstairs on the market, there is a "comedor", an eating place. Alvaro showed me, and you can have a nice meal without meat for 3 bolivianos (30 euro cents). Then i cover my nose when we pass through the part of the meat lying around naked everywhere and at the exit i buy a chocolate as well.

Here in sucre we lived in a hippy house.

 This was the christmas palm tree


Lilith, the german volunteer, Oscar the bolvian musican. They were a couple, really young and Lilith is leaving soon back to Germany. I was sad, they looked sad, even if there was always alot of music to hide it.

Felix the chilean mechanic/musician hyperactive always talking guy.

A chilean girl, having somewhere a french love.
Neither of them liked chile. It is compulsory to go voting, if not you pay. Too militar they said.
Mirko, the silent german traveller, and some else. Their house was like a hostal, with a rabbit,
a hamster, and always some new guests. Alvaro is from Chile, and now he is heading to Brasil. He said he doesnt like santiago because it is too caotic. He was manufacturing old school wallets from tetra pack, now i have also one.


Christmas was spent in the living room, with a lot of wine and cigarettes. After midnight, after the family you go out to party, just like on new years eve. Some went out.

We had fun. You know these nice moments, when many people from different countries, speaking stupidties, stroking the rabbit, everyone trying evey kind of instrument, and somehow it works and you feel warm.

Poor animal :(

Sucre is wonderful. Everything white, colonnial buildings, hilly.


The independence of Bolivia was declared here. Bolivar was of basque origin, and Rousseau Voltaire and the death of his wife led him to become themost important person in the histroy of Latin America. He led 35 succesfull battles. In Venezuela, Caracas in 1811 the Congress declared indipendence (Napoleon took over the Spanish). By 1822 Colombia, Venezuela and Ecuador were free. San Martin (the argentinian liberator) left Lima, Peru in 1824 so Bolivar went there and liberated Peru and AltoPeru (now known as bolivia, literally meaning high peru). The deciding battle was on 6th August, at Junin where also General Sucre participated. One year later, on the anniversary, on the Congress of Chuquisaca (the former name of Sucre) Alto Peru declared its indipendce from Peru and gave the name of the country after it liberator Bolivar. And the city was renamed Sucre, after the general who generated this process.

Bolivar had a dream of a united LatinAmerica, just like the USA. Sadly, his dream fell to pieces, there was a Gran Colombia for a while, but not long. At least, now he is a hero.

I dont know how i will pay in this internet place coz i only have 100 boliviano notes. They have problems with change here in this continent. In Argentina it was worse, but also here, the waiter preferred to give me the coffe instead of 5 for 3,5 than to change the 100 note for me. The sweet thing is when they dont have a little change to give you, you get some sweets instead of money :)

Did i write you about Potosi? I think not too much. Actually I am not in the mood. There was a great girl from Germany, Aisha. We had big laughs together and she gave me one of her sweaters, really warm coz i was freezing away on those 4000 meters :)



In Potosi Bolivia looked sad to me. It has a sad history, with the minig, millions of africans and bolivians dying in the mines... The once richness can be admired on the many churches around the city. Bolivians drink a lot, some men seem to be always drunk. Here in Sucre they are happier. I will tell you more, now i have to go. Kiss




AIRCOMET, my flight company has gone bankrupt.

If anyone knows  the legal steps to take, or has a similar story, please tell me. I am afraid to lose the ticket for february....



The tour of the salares of Uyuni, los lipez

I am in Potosi, in my dear hostal Koala Den where i had the best breakfast included ever. Potosi is incredibly sweet, full with churches, and owing to its 4000 ms it is also quite cold. Finally my weird dream of passing Christmas in 40 degrees is not going to become reality. At least, the cold and the teas and all the Christmas decoration here makes me a nice nostalgic feeling.

I will write you about the city later, because i still have to tell about this Salares tour.


The salares tour from tupiza is only feasable in 4 days. It was not worth it! Anyone wanting to to the tour should do it from Uyuni, 2 or maximum 3 days. it was amazing but way too much and staying in the jeep all they long is very boring. Not to mention that on the first day the landscape didnt provide anything more interesting than what i had already seen in north of argentina.

The most remarkable memory is that i had altitude sickness on the first day!  I wasnt prepared for it mentally because i hadnt expereinced problems before and we ascended very gradually. Tupiza was already above 3000 and on the fisrt day we went up till 4000.
I had nausea, dizzyness, and also the crazy roads and 8 hours in the jeep didnt help to ease my suffering. It is quite a frightening feeling! Finally Carlos our guide anbd driver gave me some medicine and told me not to be afraid coz it is really normal. But i was feeling it was really unfair because nobody else felt bad among all the travellers. Fortunatley the next day was already a lot better.

We were 5 tourists, me and two french couples, carlos and Elisabet the cook. She was 19 and had a daugther of 2, nothing unusual here.

The worst part was that the bolivian guides and cookers always separated themselves from all the travellers. Someone told it is a very hierarchical society and it is for this reason. Okay, partly i felt they behave like slaves, preparing the food for us and these things, and that they are shy but there was also a great part due to not being interested in us. This made me a little sad. I think it disturbed the others as well.

As for the landscapes, look at the photoes. There are several lagunas, all of different colours, always according to the minerals they have inside, and if there is wind or not.

I got really used to seeing llamas, and vicunas are here as well (you remember, the savage type, a lot less cute). 

Another usual sight were the flamingos. I was shocked to see flamingos in such a cold and not welcoming place, but by the third day i got totally used to see them.

I learnt that there are 3 types:

the chielan one http://www.theanimalfiles.com/images/chilean_flamingo_1.jpg
the andean one http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3067/2551026562_69ed61d71e.jpg
and the one called james: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2200/2085203085_1ba2d249cf.jpg

It is incredible to see that people actually live in these places! Okay, now there are cars, but before they were going by llama walking for weeks to reach a city to bring food. Because obviously they do not have so much food up here. The first night we slept in a house of the locals, i was feeling like in women in the dunes (book by Abe Kobo). 
this tea was supposed to help against altitude sickness
The only lucky thing was that there are no bichos (insects) at these altitudes, so at least i didnt have to worry about that,


in the museum i was searching for hungarian tourist = nothing, not even from the region. okay i saw one bulgarian...


the plants grow like this to absorb as much water as possible. some have very deep roots, some only on the surface



last dinner at the salt hotel, everything was bulit of salt
 and the decoration above us was interesting

 the salar of uyuni, the biggest in the world





watch the picasa photos, it is worth it